Being Acne Aware
As a skin care professional I have seen a variety of types of acne over the 30 plus years I have been treating skin. I have tried and tested many products, treatments and dietary approaches. This article shares actions against acne that I have seen help many of my clients.
Acne is a skin condition that can affect most people and NOT not just teenagers. It causes spots, oily and flaky skin and is sometimes hot or painful to touch which affects a person’s confidence and wellbeing too.
FACE THE FACTS
Acne is NOT caused by poor hygiene
Hormones DO cause and affect acne
Diet DOES impact acne, certain food such as sugar, dairy, unhealthy fats and refined carbohydrates can worsen acne symptoms in some people.
Acne IS a sensitive skin but is often overly treated as oily skin and can worsen if overuse of astringent products damages the skin barrier.
Stress CAN aggravate acne
Lack of sleep MAY also affect acne
TAKE ACTION AGAINST ACNE
Always treat acne skin as sensitive skin and avoid using too many oil stripping products.
The self-help techniques below may be useful:
Do NOT over cleanse areas of skin more than twice a day. Over cleansing strips the skin’s natural defense barrier making the skin more prone to infection and inflammation. Use a gentle glycolic cleanser NOT soap or soap based products
ALWAYS cleanse off make-up before sleep
Do NOT use a toner. Instead spritz the face after cleansing with Avene Thermal Spring Water (available from Boots). This will close the pores but also hydrates and soothes the skin.
Do NOT try to pull out blackheads or squeeze spots, this can aggravate them and cause scarring
Do NOT use too much make-up. Use products that are non-comedogenic (which are less likely to block the pores in your skin)
ALWAYS moisturise your skin to protect your skin from drying out and damaging the skin’s natural defense barrier.
TREAT inflammed areas only with a targeted approach so as not to damage healthy skin
DO Wash your hair regularly and try to avoid letting long hair fall across your face
EAT a healthy diet containing Vitamins A, C, E and Zinc rich foods. Reduce your intake of sugar, refined carbohydrates, saturated fats and fizzy drinks
TAKE a probiotic supplement. Research shows that the use of probiotics may reduce skin eruptions.
Over use of products and treatments can make acne worse as it strips the skin of it’s natural oil and natural defense barrier which can lead to worsening the infection and inflammation of the skin already affected by acne. It can make the healthy skin more prone to breakouts too. It calso creates a very dry flaky top layer of skin.
Products and treatments can take up to 3 months to work as it takes time for the new skin cells to develop and replace the old damaged surface skin cells, so please do NOT expect immediate results. Once they do start to work, the results are usually good. Patience and commitment are needed to get the results!
PRODUCTS THAT WORK!
Advanced Skincare’s:
REVEAL + REFRESH- gentle glycolic wash. Contains the natural clinically proven AHAs, Glycolic and Citric Acid to remove the build-up of dead skin cells together with Salicylic Acid to remove impurities and excess oil. This combination will cleanse the skin and increase cell turnover
POLISH + GLOW- exfoliator containing a powerhouse of 6 natural exfoliating agents, including mango fruit extract, papaya fruit extract, and pumpkin enzyme, this exfoliating scrub effortlessly removes dead skin cells, unveiling a brighter, radiant complexion. Silica and bamboo stem powder provide gentle physical exfoliation, while glycolic works synergistically to refine skin texture and minimise imperfections with organic chemical exfoliation.The addition of blackcurrant extract nourishes the skin with essential vitamins and antioxidants, leaving it smooth, revitalised, and deeply refreshed.
GENTLE HYDRATION- a non oily non-comedogenic soothing day and night moisturiser is formulated to keep skin optimally hydrated and in peak condition. Blended with Tara Seed Extract, Tripeptide-1, Tetrapeptide-7 and Vitamins B & C, it will help calm and restore the skin's natural moisture barrier, boost moisture levels and help minimize future dehydration.
ZAP- a targeted gel formula to harness the potency of scientifically proven ingredients, including salicylic acid, myristoyl Hexapeptide-23, glycolic acid, phytic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, witch hazel, chamomile, and a blend of nourishing fruit extracts. Salicylic acid dives deep into pores, swiftly unclogging them, and targeting blemishes effectively to reduce inflammation and redness.
+ SERUMOLOGY - niacinamide day and night facial serum including Chia seed which helps to restore the skin’s moisture barrier and contains antioxidants CICA and fruit extracts that fight breakouts
AVENE EAU THERMALE - Thermal spring water in a spray can. It soothes irritated skin and provides a non oily hydration whilst closing the pores. A much gentler way to tone the skin. Available from Boots.
BOOTS GOOD GUT supplements- live friendly bacteria + skin & hair support Food Supplement, 30 Capsules. Containing 25 billion gut friendly bacteria that helps balance the gut’s natural biome after over consumption of sugars and refined carbohydrates. Can help reduce fungal acne.
TREATMENTS THAT WORK!
LED phototherapy- Blue light reduces the acne-causing bacteria and inflammation.Red light reduces the inflammation and redness and stimulates new collagen. Often blue and red light are used in combination to help fight acne.
IPL Laser -Intense Pulsed Light system directly targets overactive sebaceous glands which reduces reduces the number and severity of inflamed areas. IPL encourages the production of new collagen to improve skin texture, and can also reduce the appearance of red or brown areas of skin that are often associated with acne breakouts as well as reduce the risks of scarring.
MICRODERMABRASION -Microdermabrasion is an effective exfoliation treatment for those suffering from mild acne breakouts. The treatment removes the dry dead skin cells which can trap the oil or sebum in the skin’s pores to minimize the appearance of whiteheads and blackheads, creating a smoother look on the skin's surface.
Consult with a skin care professional before starting any treatments to ensure that they are correct for your skin type and skin condition.
FEED YOUR SKIN FIT!
REMOVE refined carbohydrates, sugar, saturated fats and fizzy drinks from your diet
INCLUDE
Omega rich foods
Lean protein
Mineral Zinc
Vitamins A, C and E
Antioxidants and probiotics
Water
Some fit skin-friendly food choice suggestions are:
Complex carbohydrates brown rice or pasta, quinoa and whole-wheat bread
Orange and yellow fruits such as apricots, papaya and mango and vegetables such as carrots, sweet potatoes, yellow and orange peppers
Spinach and other dark green and leafy salad and vegetables
Tomatoes
Raspberries, blackcurrants and blueberries
Sunflower, pumpkin seeds and nuts
Lentils, beans and peas
Chicken and turkey
Mackerel, salmon, tuna and other kinds of omega rich fatty fish
Live yoghurt
Olive oil and sunflower oil for cooking and salad dressings
ALWAYS take into account any food allergies or sensitivities you may have when planning your diet. Find gluten free and dairy free alternatives and please AVOID nuts if you are allergic or intolerant to them.
Article written by Lorraine Tolley Rejuvenetics June 2024
‘Botox in a jar’, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
What is Acetyl Hexapeptide-8?
Commonly referred to as ‘Botox in a jar’, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a peptide compound used to reduce the appearance of fine lines causes by repeated facial expressions, such as crow’s feet, glabellar lines or nasolabial lines. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is often referred to by its commercial name Argireline, which refers to both Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-3.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 promotes the skin’s natural production of Type 1 collagen, the crucial protein which forms large, eosinophilic fibres to rebuild muscles, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. This ingredient blocks signals from the nerves to the muscles; these muscles can no longer retract which causes the wrinkles to relax and soften. Wrinkles and fine lines caused by sun damage will not respond to Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.
What are the benefits?
Research shows that Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 can reduce wrinkle depth by up to 30% when used for 30 consecutive days.
Due to its similar structure to botulinum toxin, acetyl hexapeptide-8 in considered an excellent, non-invasive alternative to Botox.
Restores the skin's natural water barrier, and helps bind water to the skin, improving dry skin. It also helps to improve skin elasticity due to the improvement in Type 1 collagen.
How does it work?
With a similar structure to botulinum toxin, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 works by controlling the production of neurotransmitters. The structure of the peptide mimics a fragment of the SNAP-25 protein and relaxes the facial muscles thereby smoothing the appearance of the skin.
Which Advanced Skincare products contain Acetyl Hexapeptide-8?
Recover + Renew Active Night Cream
Active Ingredients: 0.8% Retinyl Palmitate, 1% Hyaluronic Acid, 10% Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Recover provides much-needed extra care for your skin to help it recover from the stresses of the day while you sleep. Recover has been specifically developed to help rehydrate and promote overnight recovery, revealing a softer and more youthful appearance for the new day ahead.
References
Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology, March 2015, pages 46-52
European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, February 2015, pages 27-35
Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, issue 5, pages 343-349
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2002, issue 5, pages 303-310
http://raluca-rosenberg.blogspot.com/2014/02/argirelina-inovatia-care-elimina.html
The science behind Advanced Skincare
I created Advanced Skincare after years of observing and treating various skin conditions such as ageing skin, pre-menopausal and menopausal skin, dehydrated sensitive skin , acne/rosacea prone skin and sun damage pigmentation.
Following much research and testing treatments, I discovered what works and what does not! In my past experience of being involved as a skin therapist, trainer and user of well recognised high end skin care products it is quite obvious that skin care has become too complicated with over prescription and over use of too many products that confuse the skin. Many products feel luxurious and smell wonderful but in reality they do not contain the important ingredients that I now know optimise skin health.
In my blogs I will share my research and top tips to help you improve your skin.
Autophagy & Skin: How to hack your cellular processes for a more youthful complexion
What is Autophagy?
Autophagy is the body’s way of removing dead or damaged cells, in order to regenerate healthier, newer cells. ‘Auto’ means self and ‘phage’ means eat, so autophagy literally means ‘self-eating’. It’s like pressing a reset button for your body and skin, the autophagy process recycles parts of dysfunctional cells for cellular repair and removes the rest. Alongside this autophagy promotes cellular survival and adaptation as a response to various stressors and toxins accumulated in our cells. Dr Yoshinori Oshumi received a Nobel Peace Prize in 2016 for his work on autophagy and related genes.
How does it benefit the skin?
Maintaining autophagy flux delays the appearance of ageing and reduces the visible signs of ageing. Autophagy detoxifies the skin by turning waste proteins that speed up the ageing process into amino acids, to create firmer, plumper, healthier looking skin.
Cell function declines 1% every year with age up until perimenopause, the epidermal cycle slows down, and in turn the efficiency of the autophagy process is reduced. Speeding up this process increases cell turnover and shortens the epidermal cycle, resulting in younger, fresher looking skin. Boosting the autophagy process reduces fine lines and wrinkles due to the increase of amino acids, creating a smoother complexion.
Speeding Up Autophagy with Skincare?
Good news! The autophagy process doesn’t have to reduce with age, there are things you can do to speed it up! Polyphenols, are a category of chemicals that naturally occur in plants, can be added into skincare products to promote autophagy in the skin. There are over 500 unique polyphenols, collectively these chemicals are known as phytochemicals, these powerful antioxidants protect cells from neuronal damage by inducing autophagy to remove the free radicals. Vitamin A (retinol), vitamin c, vitamin e, ascorbic acid, caesalpinia spinosa (Tara seed extract) and citrus bergamot are all polyphenols and can be used to boost the autophagy process in the skin. Here are some of the Advanced Skincare products that include polyphenols:
Recover & Renew Night Cream
A powerful and highly effective cream containing liposomal retinol, a stabilised vitamin A derivative which has been clinically proven to increase cell turnover. Retinol will reduce pore size, resulting in firmer younger looking skin as well as reduce, visible signs of ageing including pigmentation and uneven skin tone.
Eye Refine: Intensive Eye Serum
1% Lactic Acid, 7% Refined Silica, 4% Vitamin E, 1% Vitamin C
Eye Refine is an intensive eye serum which actively works to rejuvenate and repair the signs of ageing. Containing a unique blend of ingredients including vitamin E to hydrate, almond oil to repair and protect against the signs of ageing and lactic acid which has gentle resurfacing properties to diminish the appearance of crow’s feet and visibly improve clarity and tone.
Gentle Hydrate
3% Tara seed extract, 1% Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, 1% Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
This luxury silky moisturiser contains clinically proven ingredients to keep your skin optimally hydrated and in peak condition. H2∞ contains tripeptide-1 and tetrapeptide-7, biomimetic peptides to help stimulate growth factors and collagen synthesis, to protect and help restore the skin's natural moisture barrier and reduce inflammation. Natural Tara seed extract works deep within the skin to boost moisture levels and help prevent future dehydration. It’s also high in vitamin C and B.
References
Front Immunol. 2018; 9: 1376
https://juniperpublishers.com/jcmah/pdf/JCMAH.MS.ID.555573.pdf
https://www.iiaa.eu/autophagy
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2813915/
https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/anti-aging-wrinkles/what-are-ceramides-how-do-they-work-in-skincare.html
https://www.naomiwhittel.com/the-anti-aging-miracle-4-tips-to-activate-autophagy/